Angus Miyaji

The Cat Onsen in Rural Japan - An exclusive interview with onsen owner Mr. Endo

Based in Shiobara Onsen in Nasu-Shiobara City, Tochigi Prefecture north of Tokyo, Akasawa Onsen Ryokan has been attracting an increasing number of foreign travelers looking for a refreshing experience in nature, away from the concrete jungles and tourist hubs of Tokyo and Kyoto.

To learn more, we met up with Masatoshi Endo, the owner of Akasawa Onsen Ryokan, for a friendly chat. Endo has a unique career as a hotelier and owner of a tourism company. His journey to owning an onsen ryokan began with his first job as a salaryman, and culminated in the moment he received the keys to Akasawa Onsen Ryokan. Now, as the proud owner of a stellar establishment, he has taken the opportunity to take the best that the surrounding area has to offer and incorporate it into the experience of guests’ stay in Shiobara Onsen.

I am excited to share this well-hidden onsen ryokan and all the intriguing activities that accompany it with you all. I’m quite convinced that after you are finished reading this interview, you will be interested in visiting Akasawa Onsen Ryokan when you come to Japan!

Can you tell us a little bit about yourself and how you came to run your own onsen ryokan?

I heard it was always ‘your dream’ to own a Onsen ryokan (hotel)?

Yes, but I actually come from a completely different background!

I started my career working as a salaryman in the forest industry which led me to travel around the globe and meet many people. However, my dream of one day running an ryokan (hotel) never left me.

Finally, I decided to follow my dream and I retired early from my job. I traveled across Japan in search of an onsen ryokan to purchase and came across this ryokan in Shiobara Onsen. I instantly fell in love with it and purchased it from the previous owner.

I had a specific image in mind of what I wanted it to be. ‘A place for travelers to enjoy their time and relax. And where guests could easily chat with the owner.’

After some renovations, my wife and I set out on a new chapter with this Onsen Ryokan in 2015.

How does your onsen ryokan cater to foreign tourists?

We have staff who speak English, so you won’t have to worry about the hassle of trying to translate your wants and needs during your stay. Also, as I mentioned, my previous job required me to often travel abroad for business, so I can speak English, Spanish, and Chinese.

Currently a little over a tenth of the people who stay at our ryokan are foreign tourists, but everyone comes here for the same reason. ‘To seek solace in the idyllic, nature-filled countryside.’

Akasawa Onsen Ryokan is perfectly located in the heart of nature and all of our ten rooms face the Hohki River, offering a picturesque view of the surrounding nature.

And for cat-lovers, you’ll get a warm welcome from our feline friends who like to hang out around the onsen!

What do you recommend visitors do around here?

If you’re asking for advice on what to do during your stay here, my advice is very simple: do nothing. This may sound a bit counterintuitive since moving around and seeing things is inherent in traveling, but I think one of the biggest luxuries any person can afford is to do nothing.

But for those who want to move around a little more instead of only unwinding at the ryokan, I suggest a 2hour walk from our hotel down the Hoki river gorge which has stunning views. In addition to the suspension bridges and temples, you’ll find yourself in awe of the gorgeous valleys you come across along the way.

(From top to bottom, left to right) Friendly cats・Rest area with a waterfall view・Wood carving art・Roses in bloom

Can you tell me more about this area and its hotsprings?

I heard this area has amazing hot springs (onsens)!

Yes. One of Shiobara’s enduring traits is the endless options of onsens it offers that you can choose from. You can travel anywhere around Japan and find an onsen, but you will be hard-pressed to come across any place that can match the variety that Shiobara Onsen is so famous for.

In Japan, hot springs (onsens) are categorized through a classification system, and through this, you can understand what the onsen is like. For example, “strong” onsens often include sulfuric or acidic onsens, which tend to be set at a high temperature and are a little tough on the skin. On the other hand, onsens that are warm but easy on the skin are called “soft” onsens.

One reason our ryokan is popular with guests from overseas is our onsen is a “soft” type, so even those with sensitive skin will find our hot spring to be very comfortable and soothing.

Nearby autumn scenery

How should people continue their journey from Shiobara Onsen?

I heard you came up with a special route called the ‘Silver Route’ ?

Yes. I highly recommend visitors take the “Silver Route” after/before coming to Shiobara.

The Silver Route begins in Shiobara Onsen (塩原温泉) and continue towards Uonuma city (魚沼市) in Niigata Prefecture. The route’s total distance is 140 kilometers and will probably take you two days to complete. However, it is possible to do it in just one day as well! It can be done by car or by public transportation.

The Silver Route is perfect for those who want to avoid the heavily crowded tourist spots, such as Kyoto, and want a chance to venture into a place that not even most Japanese people have visited! If you plan on coming from Tokyo, I highly recommend leaving your suitcase or big luggage at your hotel and bringing a backpack with you.

In terms of transportation, you can choose to rent a car or use public transportation. For public transportation, you will be taking buses, trains, and even a boat to cross Lake Okutadami (奥只見湖)! While not super convenient, it helps you take in the scenery and keeps the pace of the route at a manageable level so you don’t feel rushed.

There are quite a bit of hiking trails as well as onsens on the route, and there is a very cool village called Hinoematamura (檜枝岐村), which has the lowest population density in Japan. Although there are many of inns (Ryokans) along the route, it’s important to note that many places don’t take online reservations and some maybe temporarily closed due to lack of workers. If you are a solo traveler it is also sometimes difficult to find a room in this area. Finally, dinner services and restaurants are usually limited so please be careful when traveling.

All in all, it’s a sublime route that will transform the way you see Japan, for the better.

(Above) Japan Silver Route Pamphlet

Final Thoughts

Talking to Mr. Endo, I really learned a lot about the unique experiences Akazawa Onsen Ryokan has to offer. Although it is located in the middle of the Japanese countryside, I felt that is the exact reason for this place’s charm and allure.

Separated from the noise and commotion that is all too common in major cities, Akasawa Onsen Ryokan will spirit you away to allow yourself to enjoy your travels in a harmonious, peaceful setting. I look forward to planning my very own trip up here as well!