Written by Angus Miyaji
(One of them most tourist miss!)
Angus's Confession
Most travellers leave Kusatsu Onsen in Gunma Prefecture (just north of Tokyo) with the same memory of standing near Yubatake, surrounded by clouds of sulfur steam and glowing nights. This central square is amazing, but it is only half the story. I learned this the hard way after missing one of Kusatsu’s best feature on my first two visits. Just a short walk away from the Yubatake is Sainokawara Park, a quiet valley where thermal water flows over river rocks, where you can step right into the warm stream river.
Here is a breakdown of these two incredible hot spring encounters and why you need both on your itinerary.
This is the arguably the most famous spot in Kusatsu. In the central square of Kusatsu lies the Yubatake, a massive wooden maze channeling thousands of liters of hot spring water through the town (very hot!). You will see thick plumes of sulfur steam rise over dark pine chutes and visitors strolling around in colorful yukata robes. The scale and energy of the Yubatake is impressive.
Then after dawn, the entire square transforms into a theater of light. Purple, deep blue, and warm gold color the rising steam and reflect off the roaring currents below. People gather around the wooden perimeter to snap photos or sink their feet into the nearby stone footbaths.
Although Yubatake is an unforgettable view, the water is far too hot for direct contact, making this iconic landmark a place to see rather than a hands-on dive.
A short ten minutes walk from the Yubatake is Sainokawara Park. This is where Kusatsu drops its guard. Instead of churning through engineered wooden chutes, the thermal water flows freely down a volcanic valley, rushing over river stones and pooling for visitors to soak their feet.
Here, there are no guardrails. You can roll up your trousers, kick off your shoes, and literally step into the flowing river. Sitting on a sun-warmed river rock with heated mineral water washing over your ankles gives you an immediate connection with the earth below.
After dark, soft lantern light illuminates the footpaths, casting gentle glows across the mist hovering over the river. Wandering this quiet trail under the stars feels offers the kind experience that most first time visitors to Kusatsu leave without knowing.
Here’s make the most of these two areas when in Kusatsu.
Enjoy the daytime scenery of the Yubatake and explore the many shops selling gifts and delicious local snacks.
Walk over to Sainokawara Park where the river is a hot spring and visitors can enjoy the many foot bathing spots where water overflows from the river.
The park is open in the evening (a bit less crowded) so I recommend re-visiting it and going to the public bath at the top of the park which offers a quiet relaxing open air bath under the stars. (You should bring your own towel from your hotel)
After dusk, the wooden water-cooling chutes turn into a magical, illuminated town square with lights reflecting off the rising steam. Visitors often walk around the area wearing traditional yukata robes and wooden geta sandals experiencing the warm, surreal, and romantic atmosphere.
Bring a small towel in your bag so you can dry off easily after wading in the stream or soaking in footbaths.
Wear easily removable shoes or traditional geta sandals so stepping into the water never feels like a hassle.
Give yourself plenty of time after sunset because both locations completely change personality once the lights turn on.